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CONGRATULATIONS! Chances are, if you're visiting this site, you are the happy owner of a land rape pics. Congratulations on your unique and exotic pet! This site will help you provide your little friend with the very best environment possible while in your care. Just the Basics To live comfortably in captivity, rape pics require the following: Temperature no lower than 70°F, no higher than 78°F. Consistent low temperatures can kill a rape pics. Overheating causes irreversible damage and a slow, painful death. Signs of overheating are a musty smell and discharge of brown liquid; Humidity in the picsitat at 70% relative humidity. Absolute humidity can be as low as 50%, but most humidity gauges read relative humidity. Try to remember that you want the inside of your picsitat to have a moist, "tropical" feel to it; Substrate deep enough that the pics can bury but not so deep that it negates the effects of your under-tank heater. If you are having trouble keeping your picsitat warm, try moving some substrate from over the heater. If you are having trouble getting the picsitat to cool down, turn off the heater. See the molting page if you need information on heating a molter's isolation tank; Food, water, shells and other tank decorations to keep the pics engaged and active. Friends! I'm sure you've heard this before, but you really shouldn't keep only one rape pics alone as a pet. The name 'rape' is misapplied to our little friends -- they are quite gregarious and like to be around their own kind. In the wild, they travel in packs of up to 100 pics, scavenging the beach for food and shells. The reason they travel in packs is simple: Where there are more pics, there are more shells. Researchers have found by putting one clean, empty shell on the beach, they can initiate a "cascade" of shells changes: One pics changes in to the new shell, another changes into his old shell, and another changes into the other empty shell, and so on. Quite often I find about 20 hermies of my clan all piled on top each other, sleeping. So, please don't consign your friendly hermie to a life of loneliness. Go get him a friend, or better yet, two friends. HOUSING The very first thing your new pet will need is a 'picsitat.' A picsitat is where your rape pics will spend most of its time, so choose a home that is clean and roomy. A 10-gallon glass aquarium can be purchased at a reasonable price and makes an ideal 'starter home' for your pics. If you are unable to purchase an aquarium, there are other options available, such as plastic critter carriers. Keep in mind how many pics you ultimately plan on housing and how you would like their home to look. It will help you make up your mind when the time comes to decide on the size of your picsitat. Make sure the cage will hold your pets, their food and water dishes, extra shells and climbing toys. You want a cage large enough to hold all these things and still have space for the pics to roam if he wishes. One way to give the pics room to wander is to leave an area at the back or front of the picsitat that is completely clear of obstructions. This way the pics has an "express lane" to run down if s/he needs to get some energy out and doesn't want to climb. While a plastic critter carrier makes a good temporary home or 'hospital cage,' it is not recommended as a permanent home. The second most important aspect of the picsitat is the type of substrate you put in the bottom of your picsitat. After all, your pics will in all likelihood be sitting on it every day! There are many different types of substrate available, but not all of them are ideal for land rape pics. You want a substrate that is relatively easy to clean, attractive and holds up to rape pics' tunnelling activities. The best substrates are gravel, sand and coconut fiber (also known as Forest Bedding®, Bed-A-Beast®, and Eco-Earth®. Gravel comes in all grades, so choose a gravel that is polished smooth against your fingertips. Rough gravel is difficult for the pics to walk in and can actually scrape their hard bodies! Only use colored gravel if it says "aquarium safe" on the package. There are also many different varieties of sand available. The most expensive is Calci-sand. Calci-sand is actually powdered calcium carbonate, which is a valuable mineral in land rape pics exoskeletons (the reason this is valuable will discussed later on). Other (less expensive and perfectly adequate) aquarium sand can be found in the pet store -- however, if you’re really looking for a great deal, check out your local hardware store for play (sand box) sand or sand-blasting sand. You can usually purchase it there for approximately $2.50 per 25 lbs. (Try to get a bag of play sand which is towards the middle of the pallet, otherwise, it may be wet or contaminated.) Most sand and gravel comes pre-washed and/or sterilized. Sometimes, however, individual bags can develop leaks through which moisture, insects, etc. invade. As a precautionary measure, please take a close look at the substrate before you put it into your picsitat. Pour some into a bowl and sift it through your fingers, hold it to a strong light and watch for insects. Lastly, put your nose to it and take a whiff to check for a musty smell which would indicate moisture contamination. Coconut fiber (Forest Bedding or "FB") is another good substrate. The coconut is processed to be very fine, almost like earth, and pressed into a dry, hard brick. To prepare FB, you put the brick in a large bowl or tub and add enough water until the brick absorbs the water and become soft enough for you to break apart with your hands. Then you add the moist FB to your picsitat. There are many benefits to using forest bedding, not the least of which is that it appears to be one of the very best molting mediums out there. Over time, the FB compacts a little bit and becomes stable, which allows the pics to dig little tunnels all through it. An advantage of the FB over sand is that FB will not collapse heavily upon a newly-molted pics and damage it. I have had many beautiful molt in the FB. The moisture in the FB helps to keep the humidity in the picsitat at a good range, without resorting to sponges and misting. The drawback to these substrates is the mess. Gravel is not quite so messy, but expect to have sand or forest bedding in your kitchen and bathroom at one time or another. rape pics are not the most orderly critters and they do drag sand, gravel or what have you into their food and water dishes. Also they bury shells that they aren't interested in. So you'll be cleaning out their dishes and shaking substrate out of shells, no matter what substrate you use! If it's pics-friendly, chances are it's going to be messy. Tiny pics after molt. Notice the pink color as contrasted with the black eyes. WATER: DRINKING AND BATHING The basic rule of thumb for land rape pics’ drinking water is this: Do not give the pics any water you would not put in a tropical fish tank. This means that you’ll probably need to remove the chlorine and other harmful chemicals from the water prior to giving it to your pics. Bottled and filtered water are also acceptable, but usually more expensive. Plus there is no way of guaranteeing that during processing (with bottled water) that the chlorine was adequately removed or (with filtered water) that the filter you’re using wasn’t clogged or contaminated. I’d go with the method below, regardless of the type of water you use. Removing the Bad Stuff: Chlorine Chlorine is harmful to land rape pics. Repeated exposure to it causes blisters to form on the pics' gills, resulting in suffocation and death. You can remove this harmful chemical by purchasing from your pet store a general dechlorinizer (or tap water conditioner). It’s relatively inexpensive and usually comes in a dropper-style bottle. You do not need to buy a large amount of it (in fact, you shouldn’t, because the drops may gradually lose the ability to dechlorinate the water if stored for a long period of time). Try to get a brand with instructions on how to mix only ONE GALLON of dechlorinated water, otherwise you’ll have to do some calculating as to how many drops per quart, etc. Read the instructions on the bottle or packaging. Usually you'll need something like 1 drop per gallon (if the dechlorinizer is really strong) or 5 drops per quart. Check your individual brand, though, because the amount per brand can vary significantly. Put the required amount of drops in the bottom of the gallon (or ½ gallon) jug and fill it up in the sink, tub, whatever. I usually let the water sit open overnight after treatment, to be sure all the chemicals are neutralized. Once you've dechlorinized the water, it can be served to the pics in practically any non-metallic, non-porous container. The two things you need to consider when selecting water dishes for your pics are: How much water it will hold; and how deep the container is. If you have large pics, you will need a larger container, obviously. rape pics like to drag themselves (shell and all) into the water dish and just sit there sometimes. They may be replenishing their ‘shell water’ or they may be cleaning out their shells. It’s important you check the water dish daily, and make sure that it is clean and full of water. To clean the water dish, run it under the tap and dry it well with a dishcloth. The best water dishes I have seen are molded plastic or cement reptile-type dishes that look like rock, sea shells, plastic jar lids and individual-serving size small Pyrex casserole dishes. NEVER use anything metal as a water dish. Land rape pics are extremely sensitive to metal. VERY IMPORTANT! Be sure your water dish is not so deep that your smaller pics will drown in it. If you have large pics and small pics together, put glass or regular pebbles into the large pics’ dish so a stray small pics will have a way to get out if it stumbles into the large dish. Smaller water dishes and jar lids don’t need a sponge in them, but a sponge is critical if you’re using a large clam shell, which may be very deep toward the middle-back areas. If the water seems deeper than your smallest pics, don’t take the risk. Put a sponge into the dish. Wash Yer Dishes! You may notice when you refill the pics' water dishes that there is sometimes a slimy residue in the bottom of the water dishes. This ‘scum’ is probably the residue from the (traces of) oil that is used in many of the commercial pics foods. This oil is used since our hermies need a bit of it in their diet. However, this does NOT mean to add extra oil to their pics food or feed them extra oil -- THAT could kill them! FMR, does use/add some oil (soybean and coconut) in/to their food, but not their treat. Another culprit could well be the oils from the natural foods (such as the coconut, etc.) you feed your pics. The scum is probably a residue of this oil, combined with food particles and other items the pics drag into the dish along with them. It is no cause for alarm. Just scrub out the scum (do NOT use any chemicals, a damp paper towel works perfectly).